dublin wanderings

Bronwyn's original plan had been to take the train out to a coastal town today, but drizzerable weather and a developing cold for Duncan put a dampener on this idea. Uncharacteristically, Duncan encouraged wandering the shops, and we soaked up Dublin essence while searching jewellery shops for a possible 30th present for Bronwyn. A visit to the (fully operative) general post office provided an introduction to Dublin history—this building having been the headquarters of resistance and focal point during the Easter Uprising of 1916, which ultimately led to the founding of the Irish Republic.

Despite the typically-seasoned weather, streets were busy as we wandered past the 2003 “Spire", over the River Liffey, and into the touristy Temple Bar area. The Tourist Information Centre, in an attractive old church building, provided information and tickets to a later event. Then headed for but missed a walking tour on Dublin history, that had left just before from Trinity College. Opted instead for lunch in the bustling Avoca department store's cafe, where a Cranberry, Pear, and Pecan scone was followed by a bill in a colourful cover printed “The Damage”. Rated Life Scone #2, beaten only by recent sconage in the Lake District.

Further wandering found a 17 inch iMac G5, the first we've seen of the new design, this model being the baby brother of the 20 inch monster we're to order soon. Later saw a 20 inch Sony Vaio, a much more expensive machine that gave Bronwyn her first glimpse of the screen size we're getting ourselves in for! Yum. From there, wandered to the Natural History and Archaeology Museum—"free tour 3:30pm... tickets €2”. ?!? Turned out to be the former, a good deal. Scribing these thoughts filled space for me, while Bronwyn wandered for an hour, marking time...

Our tour guide was a 20-something Irish woman, surely an Archaeology graduate, and she enthused her way knowledgeably through the tour. The museum, like many others, is able to display on 5&prcnt; of its collection at any one time. The nominal value of the vast collection of gold Celtic relics is in the billions of Euros. “James Bond” lasers guard the place, we were told. We staggered about, fluey and sleep deprived, suitably impressed. After the tour we collapsed in the Recent History room, ignoring the artefacts to watch the silent slide show of the 1916 Easter Uprising play out on four massive plasma screens. (N.B. Revolutionaries: It didn't end well.)

We meandered across town, on a (too late discovered to be) futile plan to eat dinner in a well-recommended soup restaurant that had closed at 5pm. Opted instead for The Oval, self-congratulatingly renowned for “The Best Irish Stew in Dublin”. Settled into seats on the top floor, well served by another plasma screen this time silently playing out the first minutes of the All Blacks-Wales test. Err, of course. We knew that was on. Fervent supporters. Just why we're here. Go Black! Stretched Irish Stew/Soup and half pints of Guinness out to 80 mins with a slice of ordinary Black Forest... let's say sponge. 26-25 win good enough but felt like Bush back in the White House—clear victory, slim mandate.

Prebooked entertainment awaited, live Irish music with explanatory standup (sitdown?) comedy from two Irishmen on a facilitated pub crawl. At times familiar, at times hilarious. Greatest national disaster in Ireland, they told us: Brewery strikes. Like meteorologists name hurricanes, the Irish give them names... “Brewery Strike Beatrice”. “That's a Category Three Brewery Strike.” Bronwyn says she had tears in her eyes with laughter... Near the end a call for volunteers, an old Irish custom—did anyone want to go up and sing a song, or play a piece of music? A gorgeous brunette Kiwi got up and wowed the crowd with a Maori waiata, the only offering. Personally, I was so impressed I took her home with me...